Tire and wheel fitment info
When it comes to clearing larger tires, especially at the 0-3" lift height, choosing the correct wheel offset is the most critical factor. Here we'll give you a guide on what we prefer. Yes, there are always people who can claim to fit -44mm offset wheels, with 35" tires on a 2" leveling kit, and claim no rub. These trucks must be mostly street rigs with limited suspension travel, and never driven to potential. Our goal here is to keep you happy with your truck, make your truck capable of working hard, reduce wear on components, and keep it handling great.
Lift height, under 4" of lift, does nothing for tire clearance.
On these Dodge trucks, regarding the most common 0-3" of lift range, lift height does not make you clear tires better. The truck will clear the same tires and wheels stock height, as it does with 3" of lift. We say this because stock height AND properly lifted to 3", the suspension still bottoms out at the same spot. This is what matters. We are building high end suspension, made to be active, and run hard if you want! We are not going to mandate you slowly creep into driveways, so your tires don't rub. We build and design for zero tire rub, even bottomed out, at high speeds, driving hard!
Over 3" of lift, you now need to drop your bumpstops 2" or more, to limit travel for all the drop brackets/etc, and this can let you now clear the next step up in larger tires as the suspension is not compressing as far.
Measuring wheels using offset, and the advantage to using this method.
Wheel offset is the best way to spec and measure wheels. This gives you the exact placement of the tire tread, no matter how wide the wheel is. A 6" wide wheel with +18mm offset, and a 12" wide wheel with +18mm offset, both put the tire tread in the same place. The definition of offset is referencing the mounting flange placement where the wheel bolts to the axle, in relation to the centerline of the wheel where the tire mounts between the beads, and then how far the main wheel is offset in or out from the mounting flange. For example, +18mm offset would move the whole wheel where the tire mounts, inward 18mm from center, towards the engine. So, + offset numbers move the wheel inward from center, and - offset is moving the wheel outward from centerline. Higher + offset number keeps the truck more narrow in width, and closer to zero or negative offset, makes the truck wider.
Backspace measuring, and the problems with it.
Backspacing is a terrible confusing way to spec a wheel. Not sure why wheel manufacturers ever started this. If you put a wheel down on a bench, outside of wheel facing up, and then measure from the table up to the mount flange, this is the wheels backspacing measurement. Notice it's from the table? So, this measurement also includes the thickness of the tire bead mounting lip. I have seen wheels vary +/- .5" easy in lip thickness, so here is one part of the backspacing gamble. Then, this is only referencing the backside of the wheel! If you have an 8" wheel with 5" backspacing, and a 10" wheel with the same 5" backspacing spec, the tire placement is WAY different comparing the two. Backspacing is tough to nail down, so be VERY careful with this.
Normal easy trimming, for more tire clearance.
To fit substantially larger tires, on almost all trucks including these Ram's, you are going to need to trim some of the front fender liner/plastic, and maybe a little of the mud flap/plastic trim. More often than not, some of the metal rocker-seam behind it, too. You generally need to remove the bottom 4" of the backside of the fender liner. The best way to get it done is make sure the plastic is warm, mark your cut line, check behind for wires so you don't slice them, and with leather gloves and a sharp utility knife, start the cut. Pull the plastic being removed with one hand to help make the cut easier.
If you need to trim the metal behind it, a Sawzall with a long fine tooth blade makes quick work of the area. A little touch up paint, and you are all good.
All the below fitment info will assume you are willing to do this trimming, as we consider this normal easy stuff.
2003-2013 4-link trucks, with 0-3" lift fitment
Stock wheel off-set on the 2003-2012, and 2013 2500 trucks, is right at +44mm. The ideal aftermarket wheel off-set, for the best overall tire clearance, is between +18mm and +25mm. This gives the best balance between keeping the tires from rubbing, on the control arms and the fenders.
- With stock control arms....... You can run stock wheels with up to 35x12.5 tires, and still have pretty acceptable turning radius, with usually only slight rub on the stock control arms at full steering lock. With 35x12.5, +18mm to +25mm wheels and stock arms, you will clear the arms full turn lock.
- With our high-clearance control arms....... You can fit 35x12.5 on stock wheels with no rub, and 37's on stock wheels with slight rub on the upper arm. With +18mm wheels and 37's you will need to trim the fender liner for sure, and maybe even a bit of the metal rocker seam, but zero arm rub and you'll have what we consider to be great clearance.
- With our Alien long arms, 0.00mm offset wheels clear 37"x13.5" wide tires the best, but +18mm can work also with just light rub on the upper arms at full lock turning.
2013+ 3500 and 2014+ 2500 trucks and Power Wagon, with 0-3" lift fitment.
Stock wheel off-set on 2013+ 3500, and 2014+ 2500 trucks, is right at +57mm. Power Wagon is from +42mm to +57mm. The ideal aftermarket wheel off-set, for the best overall tire clearance, is between +18mm and +25mm. This gives the best balance between keeping the tires from rubbing, on the radius arms, and the fenders. These trucks clear tires stock better than the pre-2013 platform. Most of these trucks come off the lot with tire specs measuring about 34" diameter, so fitting 35's is not even a question.
- You can fit 35x12.5 tires on stock wheels with slight rub on the radius arms.
- You can fit 37x12.5 on a bone stock truck, on the stock wheels, but the turning radius is reduced quite a bit with radius arm and swaybar rub.
- You can fit 37x13.5 on +18mm wheels, on a bone stock truck, but usually full turning with zero radius arm or sway bar rub. If anything it will be VERY slight.
2009-2018 Ram 1500, tire and wheel fitment.
When reading the internet and seeing what most people are doing, you will often see people running 0.00mm to -25mm offset wheels. I prefer to keep the tires tucked in, and retain the factory OEM +18mm offset wheels, for many reasons. Aside from one case where the tires had very pronounced side lugs, and very lightly rubbed the factory upper control arm at full lock, up to 35"x12.5" tires fit just fine with this +18mm offset wheel. Keeping the +18mm offset retains the scrub radius/handling, requires less plastic trimming, and visually I think looks much better, compared to tires hanging way out past the fenders.
Rear suspension, and fitting 37's.
* If you have stock un-modified leaf springs, you can run 37's no problem, as the suspension will not compress far enough, to get the tire into the front side of the fender opening, where it would rub.
* If you do our overload spring modification, drive rather easy and try to stay away from bottoming out, as you could get the tire to rub the fender opening when you bottom out.
* If you want to drive hard off road, you need aftermarket full leafs that move the axle back a tad.
* These trucks clear 37's in the rear, in all leaf configurations, as the fender opening is just a little bit bigger where needed, compared to the 3rd gen body style. Even the stock leafs with our overload mod done, clear fine bottomed out, driving hard.
2013+ 3500 and 2014+ 2500 trucks......
* These trucks all clear 37's on the rear just fine, in any configuration, even bone stock.